Last week Valerie and I took a bike ride from Seville to Italica. We were a bit sad because the ruins of the city were closed because it’s been raining an unusual amount, but we got to see a Roman theater.
The ride itself was great—flat, easy, and surprisingly green once you get out of Seville. When we reached Italica, we found out the main archaeological site was shut down to protect it from damage. Honestly, that made sense. Heavy rain and ancient stone don’t mix well.
Still, we weren’t totally out of luck. From behind barriers, we could clearly see the Roman theater, and it was impressive even from a distance. It’s built into a hillside, just like Roman theaters were meant to be, using the slope to support the seating. Even partially closed off, you can still get a real sense of how large it was and how it worked as a public space.
What struck me is how important a theater like this would have been. This wasn’t just for entertainment. It was where people gathered, heard the Latin language spoken, absorbed Roman values, and participated in civic life. Seeing it there, outside of Rome, really drives home how deeply Roman culture reached into what is now Spain.
You can only view it from behind barriers, which at first feels frustrating, but it’s clearly about preservation. Parts of the theater are delicate, some areas are still being studied, and parts of the ancient city are tangled up with the modern town nearby. The barriers are less about keeping people out and more about making sure the site survives.
Even with the closures, the trip felt worth it. Standing there, looking at a Roman theater in the Andalusian countryside, it’s easy to imagine the city when it was alive—crowds arriving, voices echoing, and performances happening nearly two thousand years ago. Not a bad payoff for a rainy bike ride.
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