Bernini and the Cornaro Chapel

I've got a complete overview of Bernini, his "Ecstasy" and his work on and in St. Peters, but, I'm visiting Rome for the first time and took a bunch of video footage and photos of stuff that are kind of hard to find on the web so that I can redo my videos later.  (You can take my class on Udemy here.)

I have some observations about seeing it in person.  

The chapel is super dark and I was far away, but, looking through my cell phone, it compensated for the low light conditions and acted as a kind of telescope. 

 I was able to see details and magnify stuff looking at it through my cell phone.  I guess this kind of bothers me because most of the time I'm annoyed by tourists who only seem to look at the work through their phones.

I also didn't know that Bernini made a similar light bursting through the clouds over the main altar like he did in Saint Peters. 

The Cornaro Chapel decorations were made by Bernini after he worked on Saint Peter's.

While the Baldacchino and window over Saint Peter's chair are a bit more monumental and symbolic.  The Cornaro Chapel is fully theatrical.

A detail many people miss

The gold rays in the Cornaro Chapel are not symmetrical.

Bernini deliberately angled them so they align with the concealed window above, making the light appear supernatural rather than architectural.

It’s essentially Baroque stage lighting in stone and metal.

Much of the decoration in the Cornaro Chapel came after Bernini and it almost seems like much of it copies or emulates Bernini's style.  One example is the "Dream of Joseph."

It almost looks like a "knock off" or copy of Bernini's "Ecstasy."

The "Dream of Joseph" group of sculptures and the reliefs in the Cornaro Chapel at Santa Maria della Vittoria is usually attributed to Antonio Raggi, a close assistant of Gian Lorenzo Bernini.

Raggi learned Bernini’s style by working in his studio. In this relief you can see Bernini’s influence in the swirling clouds, dramatic movement, and emotional scene of the angel appearing to Joseph in a dream. These theatrical effects were typical of Bernini’s approach to religious art.

However, the carving is not as lifelike, maybe less powerful, than Bernini’s own sculpture. Bernini’s figures usually show stronger anatomy and deeper carving. Raggi’s still follows Bernini’s style but feels more decorative and kind of weaker.  Maybe because the poses of the figures mimic Bernini’s. 

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Pantheon Stuff

At the back of the Pantheon is the remnant of an ancient structure known as the Basilica of Neptune. It was originally attached to the Pantheon complex during Emperor Hadrian’s reconstruction in the 2nd century CE. The niche you see likely formed part of that basilica or a similar structure. The fragmentary Corinthian column, with its fluting, is part of that ancient architecture. While much of the Basilica of Neptune is gone, these remains hint at the grand complex that once surrounded the Pantheon.

The trenches around the Pantheon, especially on the left-hand side, aren’t ancient water channels. Instead, they are the result of excavations that revealed the original ground level of ancient Rome. Over time, the city’s ground level rose significantly due to centuries of debris and rebuilding. When the Pantheon was built, it stood on a lower plane. These modern trenches, essentially sunken walkways, let you see how deep the original entrance level was. They highlight how much the city’s ground level has risen since antiquity. So, in short, they’re modern excavations, not ancient water drainage.

Caravaggio at San Luigi dei Francesi, Rome, Italy

I got to visit three master paintings by Caravaggio at San Luigi dei Francesi, Rome, Italy.  

I took a bunch of photos and video of the exterior and interior of the church.  I thought I'd be able to get very close to them and see details etc.  In reality, one has to stand very far away behind ropes, and it's poorly lit.  

I'm not complaining here, I was struck by the overall Baroque mixing of marbles, granite, architectural details, and frescoes.  

I had a thought that if I was one of the artists who got a commission to decorate one of the other chapels or work on the ceiling frescoes, I would have declined the commission. (I know, even had I been around at the time, that wouldn't have happened)

The church overall is so Baroque, ornate, busy, that it has a kind of carnival fun house appearance.   I couldn't concentrate and really appreciate it mainly because there was such a wealth of fantastic distraction. 

Also, who would want to compete with Caravaggio? 

"Drawing Blood" by Molly Crabapple

I have been reading a wonderful autobiography, "Drawing Blood" - Molly Crabapple. Crabapple lays out in brutal but entertaining honesty her career and experiences an artist in New York from the 90s to now. It's a specifically female experience of an artist’s life. For me, it was a chance for me to see a skilled, intelligent, empathetic, female's point of view of life, art, an aspect of NYC culture adjacent but different than mine. Google her, follow her on Instagram. It's worth it. 

Fine Art Poster: Volunteer, 8x10 or 16x20 inches, by Kenney Mencher

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Grid and Transfer use of Photos

I went to the art museum in Barcelona today.  I was told it wasn't worth it. It was on so many different levels.  Anti war show from Franco and WW II.  

The whole 18th through 20th centuries stuff (really good Romanesque too) was off the hook great.  Artists who are as good as "canon" artists.

For me, a small hanging of photos that showed how some 19th century artists used reference photos with grid and transfer was super relevant for me.

Check out these academic drawings too.

Here are the references. 

Madrid

We are leaving Madrid again for the second time and headed for Barcelona for a couple of days and then on to Italy.

Our stay at the farm in Astoria was hard, interesting, physically taxing, beautiful, and an eye opening experience. This trip is all about contrasts and gathering experiences. Especially now before Val and I are less physically able.

Before that, we were in Xijon pet sitting for a tiny demon. After that, and maybe our experiences on the farm, I don't think we'll pet sit anymore.

We got back to Madrid a couple of days ago and are staying with our buddies Todd and Rachael.

Their apartment is huge and the bed is super comfortable. I've been able to spend an entire day alone at the Prado looking and sketching. There's a super big Velasquez called Vulcan at the Forge that I've made around 10 drawings of. I'm learning a lot about anatomy, hands, heads, and feet. Also, kind of surprised about what I'm learning about color. 

There was a room at the Prado with a bunch of 19th century Spanish history paintings that blew my mind and gave me lots of stuff to think about. I made some drawings of those too.

We have almost two more months of travel to go before we take the Queen Mary back to the states.

Absence does make for fondness. I will be dying to paint in oils again by then. I'm feeling it already but I think not being able to has been good for me too.

Val and I are discussing next moves for when we return. Maybe a tour of the states before we figure out some long term living plans. I do know that I want a big messy studio to experiment in. 

Two Amorous Bears

Art Print by Kenney Mencher

from $60.00 

https://www.kenneymencher.com/shop/p/two-amorous-bears-tender-masculine-art-print-by-kenney-mencher

Petsitting in Spain, Xijon and Infiesto

I signed up for a service called Trusted Housesitters to trade pet sits for lodging.  It's not been as fun as I thought it might be.

Val and I have already done 5 with varying results back in the Chicago area.  Since we were doing it as an experiment and to get references it was okay. 

 Nothing too great, one house was luxurious but I don’t care about that stuff.  Also, something I didn't quite expect was that I didn't quite connect or find that I fell in love with any of the animals.  At one sit, the dogs were required to sleep in the same bed as us but when we got in, they growled at us.

Staying in other people's homes is surreal and a bit alien.  Does this place smell like cheese?

In Xijon, Spain, Val and I sat for an adorable 10 lb dog, who, after snuggling and falling asleep on my lap, startled awake, then bit me.  Many times.  Like a murder hornet.  She also barked incessantly and on walks went psycho at the sight of other dogs.  She also tried to bite Val while she was tidying up.  The owner didn't warn us and blamed the pet's behavior on our "energy."

After the pet sit from hell I drove about an hour west and now ended up on a farm in Infiesto, Spain.  It has been much nicer and our most successful sit yet.

We looked after two horses, ten or more chickens, five or six cats, and an adorable dog named Dodger.  The owner let us come three or four days early and we really hit it off.  I was theit for my birthday and we celebrated together.

I was able to drive into the mountains and close by towns.  It's very pretty, but, i don't think Spain is for me.  Just not as friendly nor as comfortable as the USA. 

Parks and Art History

I'm in a park in Madrid where the cherry blossoms are in fresh bloom.

In the 19th century in Europe, especially in Paris, when the work week was shortened due to all the revolutions.  Designers like Baron Haussman include parks as part of the city's design.  

It was a way of providing recreation for all the groups.  Social groups mixed and even Seurat used it as a subject.  Sometimes as in the Grande Jatte, the different dogs became symbols of the people.

A worker who looks comfortable in nature with his hound, while nearby a yappy dog,  and a monkey play near a well dressed couple.

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